Saturday, January 31, 2009


My personal intent on this trip was to use my skills and experience as an engineer to help better a society. On the plane to Rwanda, I quickly realized I was not alone, as the large 747 airplane was populated with well-meaning Norwegians, British, Americans and Danes serving for a plethora of NGO’s too numerous to count. Kigali is unequivocally a city fueled by Not-for-Profits, with office after office named some variation of “European coalition for sustainable development” or “USAid” or “World Vision” or “SwedeSurvey”. With a Western presence comes all the trappings required to keep organizations afloat: advertising, hotels, 4-star restaurants and coffee shops with WI-FI (I admit, guilty as charged). I was merely a drop in the sea of Muzungos or white people in Kinyarwandan, eager to offer my Western tangible solutions to problems that a Country in the heart of Africa that had suffered Genocide surely must have.

As the field work for Water for People moved me outside of the NFP bubble of Kigali, a creeping realization began to come over me. This is not the Country I expected. Its people are not down-trodden, needy or out of their element heavy with emotional scars. Was there visible evidence of the Genocide? Yes. It is fairly common to see people over the age of 20 with limbs missing and scars and burn marks varying in severity. However, getting past physical ailments, I realized this is a people intact. They are not disjointed, unorganized or destitute. Instead, what I found is a quiet national unity that has moved past the designation of Tutsi or Hutu. I was moved more times than I can count from scenes of endearing human interaction such as a sister taking care of her younger sibling, or friends holding hands and sharing a laugh or a sincere gesture of welcome that I both witnessed and experienced. This is a people who exhibit the wholeness and warmth that emanates from deconstructing a painful past and rebuilding with lessons learned. Suddenly my western tangible solutions were taking a backseat to a wider philosophical question: what is the role of the west in the future of Rwanda? Might it be that our good intentions may be doing more harm than good?

Kathy Wilson, author, life coach and my spiritual advisor recently discussed the difference between empowerment and enabling in an ezine article. She defined empowerment as helping an individual realize that no matter the given situation, there are always many choices of action from which they can choose. “Simply being at choice” or taking control of your destiny is empowering. Conversely, enabling behavior takes the options of choice away from the person going through the hardship. “During an act of enablement, the enabler is choosing what they believe is best for another person. Depriving another person of their right to have their own power of choice not only is disempowering, it instantly transforms that person into a victim.” Extrapolating from helping a person to helping a country, I think it is important to ask: are we empowering, or are we enabling? Sending unsolicited incubators to health clinics to help with premature births is noble in theory, but when that incubator is used without electricity it becomes a literal “hotbed” for infection. Installing wells with pumps that are not locally manufactured, may be good for awhile but when the project is complete and the NGO is no longer around, what recourse does a community have when parts or replacements are needed? In this respect, I believe Water for People has gotten it right by teaming with government officials and donating only consultancy services and money. The actual approach taken and infrastructure installed will be the Community’s decision. Not all NGO’s operate like Water for People.

Another volunteer and I had a rather lengthy debate about pride, his point being that the communities that received a disproportionate amount of aid exhibited lower amounts of pride as evidenced by the children running around in tattered and dirty “mission clothing”. It did seem that the communities that rebuilt from the inside-out, without hand-outs from the West had more pride in their land, in their houses and in themselves. It’s a point to ponder. Enabling behavior not only diminishes pride, it sends a message that what they have is somehow not enough. It runs the risk of leading them to believe that to be seen as “developed” they must be like us and therefore should not develop as they see fit on their own. I have to wonder if sometimes the guilt of the inaction of West during the Genocide of 1994 is not fueling the pouring in of unasked for goods and services. It’s not that Rwanda is not thankful for the help; I have seen nothing to suggest otherwise. It just that I am wondering if it would not be more empowering for the West to be more respectful in allowing Rwanda to provide for itself? Wouldn’t it be better if the West acted as support for change instead of being the impetus of change? To answer my own question about the role of the West in Rwanda’s future, I guess I am rather laboriously coming to the conclusion that the West’s role must come from a place of empowerment in order to do no harm.

I’ve always felt that volunteering is a gift that you give yourself because what you get out of the experience is always more than you give. In this case, what I got out of it was less of a “feel-good” factor from the work I put in and more of an education on the resiliency of the human race. Anyone who has suffered a personal tragedy, be it a death of a loved one, a painful divorce or a serious depression would do well to take lessons from this Country’s people. I am sure that after 1994 they mourned for the dead, their Country and themselves and at sometime in the past, felt helpless and hopeless. But they have worked through their pain and recreated their lives and their Country with heads help up high, looking expectantly at a future that is bright and full of promise. They have embraced a painful past but do not reside there, instead choosing to take lessons learned with them as they create a new reality that is Rwanda. If you are looking for faith in humanity, you will find it here.

Rwanda has moved on from the Genocide of 1994. I think it is time that the West did too.

I would like you to meet the future of Rwanda:

Name: MUSANIWABO Immaculate

Studying: Sociology

University: Kigali Independent University

What would you like the world to know about you and your Country?

"Our country tries to improve the lives of orphans. Personally, I like to study.."

Name: CYUBAHIRO Richard

Studying: Management

University: Kigali Independent University


What would you like the world to know about you and your Country?


"I love my country, especially now that there is peace. I like to spend time with my family."

Name: UWAYEZU Jean de Dieu

Studying: Computer Science


What would you like the world to know about you Country?

"I love my County and I would like to invite those who do not know Rwanda to come and visit our beautiful Country. We love people!"

Name: MUTONI Jean d'Amour

Studying: Biomedical Laboratory Science

University: Kigali Health Institute

What would you like the world to know about your country?

"Rwanda is a good (and hilly) country, well determined to achieve a durable development. It strives to always be FIRST!"

What would you like the world to know about you?

"I'm black, medium-tall, popular and I like to make friends more than make money. I also like to talk slowly but think quickly"


Name: MUTABARUKA Rugamba Emmanuel

Studying: Computer Science

University: Kigali Institute of Science and Technology

What would you like the world to know about your country?

"The world has to know that Rwanda is a nice country despite the Genocide of 1994. Now everything is possible for our Country"

What would you like the world to know about you?

"On myself, I'm a guy who needs to improve day by day in the right way. I like my studies, especially computer science."

Now, 12/30/2010

"The above was the past; now, as I said that I need to improve day by day, this is what I meant by improvement: I completed two management sytems, one for Generation Rwanda Library, the second to keep the lawer's documents. Those softwares have made me growing in programming. Today is different from yesterday; that is right!"

Name: BAZAKARE Jean Bosco

Studying: Economics

University: Kigali Independent University

What would you like the world to know about your county?

"I would like people to know my country's history but also know what we are doing presently"


What would you like the world to know about you?

"That I am someone who likes peace."

Name: UWASE TSUNI Grace

Studying: Biology

University: National University of Rwanda


What would you like the world to know about your Country?

"That it's a wonderful country, nice people with beautiful girls."


What would you like the world to know about you?

"I like drawing, drawing and drawing :), rock music and some ragga. The other thing about me is that I would like to know about myself"


Name: NDINIMANA Honorine


Studying: Clinical Psychology

School: National University of Rwanda

What would you like the world to know about your Country:
“It’s a nice Country with beautiful mountains and people are know”http://www.blogger.com/img/blank.gif

What would you like the world to know about you?
“That I like music, dancing, talking with people and I like to find everything new!”


Thursday, January 22, 2009


This post is going to be short because I am bouncing around the back of an SUV on my way back from helping another group out. My group has finished our sector due to the very organized and professional Agronomist, Theophile. Other groups had sectors that were more remote and had government officials who were not as "with it" as Theophile and the people working with him. So our group is finished and I have agreed to help one of the groups that has the farthest away sector and the highest altitude (I think.....).


This SUV has a broken window and a driver who has an Alter Ego we will call "the Gangsta", and I can hardly bang away on this blackberry, the vehicle is jostling around so badly. So under these challenging circumstances, let me try to answer the question that my grandparents seem very interested in: "What are you eating over there?" Rwanda is a land locked country and, due to logistics and mountains, its people were never subjected to slavery (has nothing to do with their cuisine obviously, but an interesting fact none-the-less). The amount of rain they get means food is pretty plentiful.



So what do Rwandans eat? It seems like they eat a lot of carbohydrates, potatos, carrots, rice, maybe some beef with a sauce that might have beans in it. Rwandans are not fat or overly thin. They just look healthy. Healthy, despite the buffets and carbo-loading.



I attribute their healthy look more to the thousands of hills they must climb as they go about their day rather than the food they eat. I am definitely missing my green-leafy foods though, and can't wait to have a massive salad.

Wednesday, January 21, 2009

Rugby Players United!!


For those of you who don't believe in divine intervention, here is one for you.


All the volunteers and orphans of Rwanda were at a dinner thanking us for our volunteered time. The dinner was outside and the crickets and frogs were serenading us as the sun set. I was talking to Helene, the in-country coordinator for Water for People about French-speaking Canada. which is where she is from. I said the only time I had been there was on a rugby trip when I was in college. The next day Honorine, the orphan who has been my partner from the start of the project said "Did I hear you right, that you play rugby?" I said yes, and she said that she also played rugby for a while in high school but had to quit because there was not a team at her university. So then we got into this conversation about how I started the women's team in Denmark and how it was one of the most rewarding things I have done in my life. I explained to her that this would not only give her the opportunity to play a sport she loves but the possibility to come away from the experience knowing that all the hard work involved could introduce women to a sport that they might have not ever been given the chance to play. Honorine is incredibly feminine and pretty and would be an excellent example of how you can play rugby and not compromise your femininity. Having played hooker (a position in rugby for all you non-rugby players out there) for the Rwandan National team against Uganda and Kenya, I'd say she knows what she's doing!



Rugby is very empowering. It builds confidence, team-building skills and leadership. It teaches you how to win and lose gracefully and instills the desire for continued and relentless self-improvement. If Honorine decides to start a team, I honestly believe she will be contributing to leadership in her community.



I know there are a great many of you out there that love the game and hope she decides to take on this challenge. I also hope that you will join me in wishing her luck if she does!



How is that for synchronicity?!




Saturday, January 17, 2009







I' m fine! I'm actually better than fine. Last night we stayed near Parc des Volcanes which is in the Virunga Mountains that share borders with Uganda and the DRC. The volcanoes were a magnificent backdrop behind the Kingi Guest House where we stayed. The Guest House is run by a non-profit women's association that was set up in 1994 to help widows and their children after the Genocide. The grounds of the guest house were beautiful, with hydrangeas, bee blossoms and numerous other flowers I did not even know the names of, that where growing in an almost English Garden-like way. It was gorgeous and the fact that our staying there contributed to such a positive income generating program made it even better.


This morning at the crack of dawn we all met at the park entrance with the 40 other tourists and Rwandans to trek to see the gorillas. Hikes can take as little as an hour or as much as 5 hours to get to where the gorillas are. Our group was assigned the Kwitonda group, a group known to have 2 silverbacks and the youngest offspring of all the groups at 6 months old. The day before our trek, that group of gorillas were at a very high altitude and it looked like gorilla tracking was going to be an all day affair. We where so relieved when the trackers said the search for food led the gorillas down the mountain.


We set off to meet the trackers with the guide and 3 Rwandan soldiers who routinely go with each group of hikers after 2 tourists were killed several years ago. After an hour and a half of decent walking we were within a few meters of the gorillas. Machetes had to be used to cut through the jungle vines and branches to reach them. We dropped in on them during their play time. A baby of two years and an adolescent were pulling each other out of a tree. One would start climbing and just as it was about to reach the place with new exposed sap that they like to eat, the other would jump up and pull him down. They were having so much fun and it was great to watch until the massive chief Silverback showed up. I have never seen a more impressive animal. He was the King of his domain and he knew it. I'm not normally intimidated by animals but I knew my place and the guide reinforced this understanding with shouts of "Distance!! Distance!!" as the Silverback beat his chest and looked as if he was about to charge.


Have you ever tried to run in a jungle with fallen trees and vines as thick as your wrist? I was expecting many things on this gorilla trek but an adrenaline rush was not one of them. Absolutely exhilarating. I am so glad I went on that hike.


PS. Gorilla poop is just about the worst stuff I have ever smelled!
Yes, Chris Kuzler........worse than leachate

Friday, January 16, 2009


Yesterday was very successful. With the team together, everyone is getting fitter and used to the high altitudes. Honorine and I have been sharing our lunches with the driver of our SUV and sector officials the last couple of days. I think that has gone far in showing our intention to work together. Two lunches for 4 or 5 people doesn't go very far, but it is better than nothing.


Coming back from the field, Theophile asked one of the villagers for sugarcane. The green stem is peeled by machete, the succulent interior is bitten off, chewed for the cane juice, and then spit out. We each had a stalk that was 3 or 4 feet long. It was so good.



The driver had bought us roasted corn which was waiting for us upon return to our car. Even though it was raw with only the outside slightly toasted the roasted corn was very good. However, last night my stomach started making some suspect noises... As I am writing this, we are careening on a winding road on the way to see the gorillas. I'm not usually car sick but right now I am not exactly feeling quite right. Luckily, I believe in mind over matter. I'm fine. No really, I'm fine.

Thursday, January 15, 2009







I can see why people fall in love with Africa. Everyday I am greeted with welcoming smiles and some sort of intangible joy for everyday life that I rarely see in western societies as people go about their daily lives. Despite working 7:30am to 7pm everyday, I am as relaxed as I have ever been. Then again, I'm not in charge of the project! I am trying to collect good quality data though and it is more difficult than I expected.





So far our team has been traveling from Community to Community within the sector we are serving and local water coordinators and operators have been traveling with us to help identify sources that serve the community. Each community seems to have at least 2 sources. One may be as modern as a gravity fed system with secondary treatment that serves many other communities as well, while the other may be a spring source that dries up in the dry season and must be boiled for consumption. With each point of access for water being sometimes up to a kilometer and a half away and serving over 100 people, each place to obtain water is important.

I think the water system is representative of Rwanda in general, an interesting juxtaposition of old and new all wrapped up into one.

Wednesday, January 14, 2009

Follow the small paths....they lead to the only source of water for this Community


Rwanda is way more civilized than I ever would have expected. The people in the cities are dressed in modern fashion and vey nicely and so far no matter where I am I can get cell phone coverage. The temperature is in the 80's with low humidity and the natural beauty of the place is stunning.

So far we have met with the Mayor of the District we are mapping and everyone in his cabinet. Comprised of 20 members, his cabinet, the "Orphans of Rwanda" and the Water for People volunteers crowded into a small church to go over the protocol for mapping out water source and community information for the district. Everyone was trained on how to use the GPS and we were broken into teams. My team is comprised of Honorine from the orphans, Theophile, an agronomist and a local social-economic advisor. We supposedly were given some of the flatter communities......

Sunday, January 11, 2009


I flew in last night to a nice warm climate not unlike the one I left. There was a strange smell of campfires everywhere at night and it is surprisingly dark for a city of a million people.


This morning we went to the Genocide Museum in Kigali. The stories of the murders of children were heartbreaking and the number of orphans is staggering. The gardens hold the remains of some 290,000 people in mass graves. The guide did not need to tell me we were at the site of the mass graves. I got head to toe goosebumps that told me I was there. They have started to put the names of the dead on a memorial wall. One girl's name on the wall had a first name of Innocent.


Friday, January 9, 2009

Jennifer's Water for People Trip to Rwanda

Jennifer will be posting her adventures as she works with Water for People in Rwanda to help map the water needs of the country.